De Vescovi Ulzbach Teroldego * Campo Rotaliano, Trentino 2016


Crushed herbs, deep currant fruits, black tea and black cherries, and earthy vine ripe tomatoes as well. Add that to a texture of wonderfully balanced acidity and tannins, and this wine now has a ton going on at once. There is also a slightly gamey and irony quality in this which lends a soft and elegant bitterness – yet another layer to its depth. That bitterness is what most other winemakers have long struggled with in working with Teroldego, but here it is not only tamed, but a fabulous accent to a truly complete wine.

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De Vescovi Ulzbach
Campo Rotaliano, Trentino 2016

Teroldego is certainly a grape of great intrigue in Italian wine. The great ones are truly great, but there so few of those. It used to be planted in much higher amounts, but when a grape variety is deemed difficult to grow (the berries have a tendency to break off easily) as well as difficult to manage in the winery (can be green and bitter) it simply falls out of favor. Teroldego grown in Rotaliano is unquestionably the best there is, in fact it is one of the very few ‘Grand Cru’ sites that is specific to a grape variety in all of Italy.

Giulio De Vescovi is a home-grown prodigy of sorts. His family has a long history of growing apples in this valley (as well as grapes, but that kinda goes without saying.) He is also a product of the highly regarded local Istituto San Michele all’Adige, which has churned quite out a number of today’s rising stars in Italian wine. He is focused on one grape only: Teroldego. A notoriously difficult grape to master and with very few benchmark examples to follow (see: Elisabetta Foradori), he has clearly found something special is his approach and technique.