Marco Carpinnetti ‘Moro’ Greco Moro, Cori, Lazio, Italy 2017
GRAPE: 100% GRECO MORO [geh-REH-ko MOH-roh]
The Greco family of grapes has a number of far reaching relatives, the most famous of which is the Greco grape in the well celebrated Greco di Tufo DOCG from Campania. In the Cori region, however, there is Greco Moro – Moro referring to the dark hued grape skins. Yes, historically this name dates back as far as the dark skinned Moorish people who had quite the influential reach in Southern Italy. There is also a bit of the more rare Greco Giallo (yellow) in this area, which Marco Carpinetti used to blend into this wine but now makes it with only the Moro grape. There is still a lot to be unraveled about the ‘Greco’ family of grapes – there have been so many with the moniker ‘Greco’ – or some version similar (eg: Grecanico, Grecante) throughout different parts of Italy.
GROWER: Marco Carpinetti is a big part of the push towards organic farming and has become such an important part of Lazio’s recent viticultural resurgence. He moved to both Organic and Biodynamic farming methods fully in the early 90’s and will be the first to express just how vital and important that has been for both the health of his soils and for the quality of his wines. Beyond that, Marco is also revered for being the resident expert on these rare indigenous local grape varieties as well as the benchmark for producing great wines that truly showcase their potential. He comes from a long line of growers that obviously remained dedicated to their native grapes and the knowledge that has been passed down will hopefully be a huge part of these wines gaining the recognition that they deserve.
GLASS: Bright golden in color and a bounty of golden delicious apples on the nose. Add just a skosh of sweet geranium, cut hay and the salty scent of driftwood on the beach and this is just a wonderfully fun wine, aromatically. It tastes very similar to the nose, which by now you know is not always the case. Note, saying a white wine is reminiscent of apples is not always a compliment as sometimes that ‘cidery’ flavor can be a sign of some unwelcome oxidation. Not in this case though – the crisp and ripe golden juiciness just saturates your mouth and lingers until it finishes with a fresh cut pineapple and spicy kick of ginger. It is clearly not a shy wine by any means, full of complex texture entangled in layers that may provoke deep philosophical discussion. Prepare your id.
SIDE NOTES: There is much to understand about Biodynamics, but I’ll do my best to share the gist: Farming decisions based on lunar cycles, establishing biodiversity (no monocrop vineyards) and creating a closed loop ecosystem by solving farming challenges through natural means (Got snails? Ducks eat snails. Get some ducks!)